Something I had done earlier but didn't document was
to fit the instrument cover over the firewall and instrument panel
with the cabin frame in place. This requires cutting holes for
the cabin frame to go through. I found it helpful to start with stiff
cardboard to place the cabin frame holes, just cutting rough holes at
first, then I clecoed the template onto the firewall, and then
made a snug outline with tape. By the time I took this picture,
some of the tape had fallen off, but you get the idea: 
Then
I cut the slots and clecoed the cover into place: 
Here,
I've also added a vent plate that I got from a boat store to provide a
ventilation path for the avionics stack. Also, I've predrilled
the holes for the top cover plate. The top cover plate is just a
rectangle that covers the slits for the frame. I made a temple
for the ovals the pipe makes when going through at an angle, as shown
in the previous photo. This I used to make the holes, then I
primed and put the top cover on: 
You
can't see them well in the photo, but there are slits from the cabin
frame pipes straight back to the aft edge. All this get covered
with some kind of non glare fabric, at least, that part that is inside
the windshield. These pieces will be among the last pieces
riveted since it makes getting behind the instrument panel very
difficult afterwards. 
Another
detail area - the cabin side is prepared for the kick panels.
I've added some "L's" along the floor and a small one right
under the end of the frame tube, which allows the kick panels to have
something to attach to. This is optional, but does prevent the
kick panels from moving when moving your feet around inside the cabin. 
Here
the kick panels are in place. Later, after the wires and tubing
have been run behind there up to the instrument panel, the kick panels
will be riveted in place and covered with cloth. The floor will
also get a vinyl covering. 
Above,
the flaperon control rod covers are in place, waiting to be covered
with fabric before riveting. I also added some Ben Haas style
covers for the flaperon control horn - these serve to shield the
control arm as well as provide a cover for the inspection hole I've
cut into the vertical covers. Also, the windows are ready to cut out,
as soon as I make up my mind what kind of shape I want them. I
hit my head enough on the flap support struts that I've taken to
wearing a hard hat while working around the wings. 
Here,
one inch circles and their centers are marked and drilled. They
will widened with a step drill. 
After
the corner holes are drilled, the window is cut out using the Jilson
tool. The good edge is protected by taping a strait piece of
poster board along the cut line. The inside edges are then filed
and deburred. 
Next,
the edges are beveled with a tool for that purpose (upper left of
photo.) This will help the window edges to lay down on the
plexiglass and form a better seal. Next, the plexiglass is
mounted and riveted. 
The
plexiglass has been sized and drilled with a 3/32 hole, then removed
and widened with a 3/16 hole, as per the directions. Do not go
by the lines that come drawn on the plexiglass, but use measurements
directly from the windows. 
Here,
I've made some trim pieces for the interior side of the plexiglass to
rivet to. In the insert photo, there is a piece with an 1/8 inch
joggle (made on my small 18 inch brake) that is used on the aft and
top edges of the rear window. The bottom of the windows have
sills, made by the U shaped channel on the right, 20 cm on a
side. In the main photo, the sills have been covered with
fabric. .016 panels covered in fabric will placed over the areas
under the windows, along with some 3/4 inch sound deadening
foam. Also, the flaperon control rod cover will be covered in
fabric before riveting. 
Above,
the control rod covers have been covered in fabric, and templates for
the bottom panels have been sized, waiting until I can get some .016
for covering. The areas above the windows will also be covered
in fabric. The cushions are in place, and the seat belts have
been installed. I will wait until the paint job to remove the
paper covering on the plexiglass. You can see the Lexan sky
shield in place. I plan on using bolts along the rear edge,
making it easy to replace. Jump back to
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