The oil cooler bracket that was supplied by ZAC didn't
fit, despite the similar dimensions of the engine, so I cut out the
4130 and drilled it after making templates, and then had it TIG welded
and powder coated. Here are the parts ready to mount.
Here is the oil cooler bracket in place, ready to
accept the bolts for the oil cooler. Note the engine case bolt
that protrudes through the bracket. This will be covered with
baffle to direct the air down through the cooler.
Here is the baffle kit from Van's for the O-360.
It comes with very snug fitting baffles around the engine, and you
have to cut it down to leave about 1/2 inch gap between the baffle
tops and the cowl when in place. This gap will be filled with a
baffle flap to form an airtight seal that forces air from the front
down around the cylinder fins.
Here is the baffle around the oil cooler and on the
left side of the engine.
Here I've cut a hole in the rear left of the baffle
for air intake to the cabin heater. I read once about a guy
whose cowl sucked in a bee and it traveled trough the heater right
into the cabin, making for an interesting departure. I've added
a stainless steel screen as I've seen done by ZAC and on some other production
aircraft. I got it from McMaster-Carr and it is sandwiched between the
baffle and a 2 inch flange (not supplied.)
Here is the right side - I added another screened vent
on the scoop to cool the alternator. I still need to add some
angles to fill the gap on the front baffle. I also added a
screened 1 inch hole on the rear of the right baffle to cool the
magneto, seen the previous photo of the right side. The opening
for the carb heat still needs to be added.
Here, the spinner has been drilled through to the
bulkheads - how I did this was a bit complicated - I cut out the
openings for the prop blades a little bit at a time until a good fit
was achieved with a slight gap for blade movement. Then, I
placed the spinner on the bulkheads in what I thought looked
"pretty close" to the spinner being perfectly centered,
and drilled one hole and clecoed it in place, and used clamps
elsewhere. Then, I had a friend hit the starter switch and
watched the spinner nose while the prop turned, adjusting the spinner
position until there was zero wobble of the nose. I then drilled
more holes, checking for wobble after each hole. Then
nutplates were installed at each hole as shown above.
Also, the prop bolts have been installed, torqueing
them initially to 25 ft lbs, and then, going in a criss-cross pattern,
torqueing each bolt with an additional 5 ft lbs until 45 ft lbs was
reached. I will wait a few weeks, and recheck the torque of the
bolts until there is no movement needed, and then safety wire the bolt
heads as per AC 43.13.
Here is a picture of the trimmed, drilled and
countersunk spinner. I also cut out a template to cover the gap
behind each blade, shown by the white cardboard in the lower right
corner. These gap covers are shown with a coat of primer around
the spinner.
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